Twickenham
If you are a rugby fan, there is something rather special about going to Twickenham. It is, after all, the home of English rugby and one of the world's most famous rugby stadia. Unfortunately, fame and atmosphere don't necessarily make somewhere enjoyable, and Twickenham is a ground I have rather mixed feelings about.
The stadium has officially been renamed the Allianz Stadium due to corporate sponsorship and that's the name the powers that be want it to be known as but to rugby fans it is and always has been Twickenham or Twickers.
The first thing that strikes you is the stadium itself. It really is a concrete jungle, an enormous mass of concrete that dominates the area. The good news is that the surrounding area is quite the opposite, with pleasant residential streets and plenty of pubs, making it a much nicer setting than the stadium itself might suggest.Getting there isn't particularly difficult, although there is a little trick known to the regulars. Twickenham railway station is the obvious choice and is within walking distance, but on a major international match day you can expect it to be absolutely rammed. Those in the know will often travel to Richmond or Hounslow and use the shuttle buses, which can be a much less stressful way of getting to the ground.
And getting away afterwards is another matter altogether. Whichever route you use, thousands of people are all trying to leave at roughly the same time, so patience is definitely required.
Once inside, you have an enormous stadium capable of holding a huge crowd, and when England are playing a major international the atmosphere can be impressive. The noise generated by a full Twickenham is something every rugby supporter should experience at least once. There is also a real sense of occasion that comes from simply being there.
But there is a downside. For me, Twickenham can sometimes feel more like a massive corporate events venue with rugby being played in the middle than the traditional rugby ground I would really like it to be. It is certainly impressive, but impressive isn't necessarily the same thing as atmospheric.
And then we come to the cost.
Twickenham is expensive in virtually every respect. Admission isn't cheap, and once you have paid for your ticket the spending doesn't stop. Food and drink inside the stadium can make an already expensive day considerably more expensive.
To give Twickenham some credit, the food choice is considerably better than at many other stadia. There is a much wider selection than the usual burger, chips and pie, so there should be something to suit most tastes. The problem is that having lots of choice doesn't necessarily make it good value. Drinks aren't exactly cheap either.The pubs around Twickenham provide another option, and personally I'd be inclined to make more use of them. Getting a drink and something to eat locally before or after the match can make the day feel rather more like a social occasion and rather less like an expensive visit to a giant concrete bowl.
There is no denying the history. This is Twickenham, and that counts for something. England have played here for generations, countless famous matches have taken place here and for rugby supporters it remains an iconic venue.
But iconic doesn't mean perfect.
Twickenham is a stadium you really ought to visit if you are a serious rugby fan, if only to tick it off the list. The scale, history and big-match atmosphere are difficult to replicate elsewhere. Just don't expect a cheap day out, don't expect much in the way of architectural charm, and don't forget your credit card.
For me, it is rather like visiting a famous attraction that you are glad you have seen but aren't necessarily desperate to revisit.
Old Moaner verdict: Iconic rugby venue, impressive when full and a surprisingly good choice of food — but expensive, rather concrete and not exactly overflowing with charm.
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