Stade de France
The Stade de France is France's national stadium and, despite what you might assume from the name, it isn't actually in central Paris. It is in Saint-Denis, just north of the city, although getting there from central Paris is relatively straightforward by public transport.
For rugby, this is a stadium I really like. It is big, modern and perhaps most importantly, it can generate a fantastic atmosphere. Get a passionate French crowd in full voice, particularly during the national anthem La Marseillaise, and you really do know you are at a rugby match. There is something rather special about sitting among thousands of French supporters singing their anthem at full volume.
And don't be surprised if some of those supporters are dressed as cockerels. They are, after all, supporting Les Bleus!The stadium itself is impressive, although like many huge modern stadia it can feel a little impersonal when it isn't full. On a big rugby occasion, however, that becomes much less noticeable. The sheer size of the crowd and the noise it generates give the place a real sense of occasion.
Getting there is reasonably easy, with the stadium served by the RER and Metro network, although as with any major stadium, getting away immediately after a big match can be a bit of a scrum. The crowds are huge and everybody seems to want the same train at exactly the same time.
Food inside is one area where it doesn't quite live up to French expectations. There is certainly a French influence to the food available, but the choice isn't particularly exciting and you shouldn't expect a gourmet experience simply because you're in France.
The good news is that you aren't restricted to the stadium catering. There are plenty of cafés, fast-food outlets and places to eat around the stadium, so arriving early and eating outside can be a much better option. And, of course, if all else fails, there is always the humble French baguette. Somehow, even a baguette eaten in the surroundings of a huge stadium feels more appropriate than a rather sad burger and chips.
There is, however, one area where Stade de France really does fall down — the toilets.There simply aren't enough of them, and those that do exist are surprisingly small considering the enormous capacity of the stadium. At busy matches the queues can be lengthy, which brings us to a slightly unfortunate French tradition. Faced with a shortage of toilets, some French men apparently revert to the tried and tested solution of finding somewhere else to go.
Let's just say that after a major match you may want to watch where you put your feet.
Despite its shortcomings, Stade de France remains a great place to watch rugby. The facilities aren't perfect, the food could be better and the toilets are definitely an issue, but when the stadium is full and the French supporters are in full voice, it is difficult not to get caught up in the atmosphere.
Old Moaner verdict: A big, impressive stadium with a superb rugby atmosphere. Not perfect, particularly when it comes to food and toilets, but hearing a passionate French crowd sing La Marseillaise makes the whole experience worthwhile.
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