Tenerife
Tenerife is the big one. The largest and probably best-known of the Canary Islands, it has been attracting British holidaymakers for decades, and there is a very good reason for its popularity: almost anything you want from a holiday can be found here. Unfortunately, that also means almost everything that is good about Tenerife has been accompanied by everything that is bad about mass tourism.
The island is dominated by Mount Teide, at 3,715 metres the highest mountain in Spain and the centrepiece of the magnificent Teide National Park. This is Tenerife at its absolute best. The landscape around the volcano is extraordinary, with enormous lava fields, volcanic rocks, craters and mountains creating scenery that looks as though somebody has transported a piece of the Moon to the Canary Islands.The drive up to Teide is an attraction in itself. As you climb, the landscape changes dramatically from coastal vegetation to pine forests and eventually the stark volcanic landscape around the summit. On a clear day the views are spectacular, and if you are lucky enough to get above the clouds, you can look down upon a sea of white stretching across the island.
A cable car takes visitors towards the upper slopes, although the summit itself requires a special permit. Even without reaching the very top, the experience is well worth having.
The trouble is that once you have enjoyed Teide, Tenerife's tourist resorts can come as something of a shock.
The south coast is dominated by Playa de las Américas, Los Cristianos and Costa Adeje, and this is where Tenerife's mass tourism machine operates at full power. Hotels and apartment complexes stretch for miles, restaurants compete for your custom and every conceivable form of tourist entertainment is available.If you want sunshine, swimming pools, nightlife and a choice of restaurants serving everything from English breakfasts to Chinese food, you are unlikely to be disappointed. If you are looking for traditional Spain, however, you might occasionally wonder whether you've accidentally landed in Essex.
Playa de las Américas is the classic example. It was essentially created for tourism and has developed into one of Europe's best-known holiday resorts. There are good beaches, a huge choice of accommodation and enough bars and clubs to keep even the most energetic night owl occupied. It is lively, sometimes extremely lively, and certainly isn't somewhere to choose if peace and quiet is at the top of your list.
Next door, Los Cristianos retains slightly more of its original character, although tourism has transformed it beyond recognition. The harbour is particularly useful, with ferries heading to other Canary Islands, including La Gomera. It is also a pleasant place to sit and watch the boats coming and going.
Costa Adeje is generally the more upmarket end of this part of Tenerife, with smart hotels, restaurants and attractive beaches. It is certainly more polished than some of the older resorts, although you will pay accordingly.
Then there is the Atlantic itself. Tenerife has plenty of beaches, but don't expect endless stretches of golden Mediterranean sand. Many are volcanic and therefore darker in colour, while some of the more attractive beaches have imported sand. The sea can also be rough, so swimming conditions should always be treated with respect.
One of Tenerife's great attractions is that you can escape the resorts remarkably quickly.
Head north and the island becomes much greener and more traditional. Puerto de la Cruz is one of the best examples. It is an older resort with attractive streets, a pleasant waterfront and considerably more character than the purpose-built developments in the south.The famous Lago Martiánez, designed by the Canarian artist César Manrique, provides a series of seawater pools beside the Atlantic. It is an excellent example of how a tourist attraction can be created without completely ignoring the natural environment.
Nearby is the Jardín Botánico, one of the island's finest gardens, containing an impressive collection of tropical and subtropical plants.
Perhaps even better is La Orotava, one of Tenerife's prettiest towns. Its historic centre is packed with traditional Canarian architecture, wooden balconies, churches and attractive old houses. It is a place where you can wander around without being constantly reminded that tourism is the island's biggest industry.
Further north is Garachico, another attractive historic town with a rather dramatic past. A volcanic eruption in 1706 destroyed much of the original settlement and reshaped the coastline. Today natural volcanic pools provide somewhere to swim, while the old town itself is pleasant to explore.
And if you want scenery, the Anaga Rural Park in the north-east is spectacular. Jagged mountains, deep valleys, winding roads and isolated villages create a landscape that seems to belong to an entirely different island. The roads can be challenging, but the views make the effort worthwhile.
The contrast between north and south is one of Tenerife's great strengths. The south is generally warmer, drier and more developed, while the north is greener, cooler and considerably more traditional. In fact, if you only visit the southern resorts, you haven't really seen Tenerife at all.
The island also has some excellent wildlife experiences. Whale and dolphin watching trips operate from the southern coast, and the waters between Tenerife and La Gomera are particularly good for marine wildlife. The excursions vary considerably in quality, so it pays to choose an operator that puts the welfare of the animals before simply chasing sightings.
Tenerife is also home to Loro Parque, one of the island's biggest attractions. Originally established as a parrot park, it has grown into a huge animal attraction. It is undoubtedly popular, although opinions differ considerably over the ethics of keeping large marine mammals and other animals in captivity. For me, the island's natural wildlife is a much more appealing attraction.Another Tenerife experience is driving. Hire a car and the island becomes considerably more interesting. You can leave the tourist belt in the morning, drive through banana plantations and mountain villages, climb into the clouds and be standing among volcanic landscapes by lunchtime. Few holiday islands offer such a dramatic change of scenery over such a short distance.
The food is another pleasant surprise once you get away from the tourist strips. Traditional Canarian dishes include papas arrugadas, those wonderfully wrinkled potatoes served with mojo sauce, fresh fish, goat's cheese and various hearty local specialities. As always, the further you get from the main tourist areas, the better your chances of finding somewhere serving genuinely local food.
Tenerife also has a spectacular annual event in the form of the Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife. It is one of the largest carnivals in the world, with elaborate costumes, music, dancing, parades and enough noise to wake up Mount Teide. If you happen to visit during carnival season, expect the city to be anything but quiet.The island's biggest problem is simply the amount of development. Parts of the south coast have been built up almost relentlessly, and some stretches are not particularly attractive. There are areas where the view from your hotel is essentially another hotel. This isn't helped by the endless parade of souvenir shops, bars and restaurants competing for the tourist pound.
But it would be unfair to judge the whole island on that basis.
Tenerife is a bit like having two holidays rolled into one. There is the resort holiday, where you can spend a week or two doing absolutely nothing more strenuous than walking between the pool and the bar. Then there is the Tenerife of mountains, forests, volcanoes, villages and spectacular scenery. The second version is infinitely more interesting.
Old Moaner verdict: Tenerife is undoubtedly touristy, and some parts have been developed far beyond what is attractive. But unlike some heavily developed holiday islands, it has an extraordinary interior that remains spectacular. Mount Teide alone is worth seeing, while the north coast, La Orotava, Garachico and Anaga demonstrate that there is still plenty of character beneath the tourist veneer. Enjoy the beaches and resorts if that's your thing, but for goodness' sake hire a car and get out of them. Tenerife is a magnificent island — you just have to go looking for it.
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