Cyprus - West
Akamas Peninsular
The Akamas Peninsular is the nearest you can get to a wilderness in the 21st century. This undeveloped area is difficult to access, unless you have a 4x4 or other off-road vehicle or by boat along the expansive coastline.
It is home to rugged scenery, sandy coves and crystal clear water. Inland are pine forested hills, interspersed with juniper trees.
Nowadays the area is inhabited only by wildlife although in Greek and Roman times there were several communities here. At Cape Drepano there are the remains of a Roman harbour and a Byzantine Basilica.
The Baths Of Aphrodite is a tourist trap on the northern side of the peninsular. Basically a shaded pool and grotto is it where Aphrodite is supposed to have met her lover Adonis. All total tosh of course but if it gets the visitors in then why not go for it. In reality it’s a scenic walk to view the pool, although bathing in the pool is no longer allowed. There are several walking trails starting from the single building at the top, which is home to a restaurant and little else.
Polis is a delightful town a few miles east of the Baths and it serves as a delightful base for exploring the peninsular and is much quieter and less touristy than Paphos. Unfortunately more people are discovering the delights and the town is expanding, hopefully not to its detriment. A stroll around the quaint town centre is a good way to while away an hour or two.
Troodos Mountains
If you think Cyprus is all sun and sea think again as the Troodos Mountains are, literally, a breath of fresh air. They even have snow and are home to a growing winter sports area in the country.
Vast pine forests are interspersed with some impressive monasteries and some delightful small towns.
The biggest monastery is Kykkos but I came away from the place with mixed feelings. Visually the monastery is stunning and opulent, sometimes over the top and, maybe even, the ecclesiastical version of bling. The wealth of the monastery is said to exceed the wealth of many small states and countries. However it also comes across as almost being obscene where a church has so much wealth yet there is poverty amongst many of its followers and I must admit I came away from the place feeling quite angry.
Mount Olympus (not to be confused with its Greek namesake) is the highest mountain in the Troodos range. Dominated by pine trees but interspersed with some impressive cedar trees the most beautiful time to visit is in the spring when the wildflowers are in bloom. On a clear day you can see across the island of Cyprus and the Mediterranean to the Turkish mainland.
In winter the mountain generally has 3m of snow and it becomes the main ski resort in the area.
As I said there are plenty of delightful villages in the area but if you visit only one try and make sure it’s Omodos. Described by many as the most beautiful town in Cyprus it is at the heart of the wine growing district. It is home to an impressive monastery and the town square is lined with cafés. There are plenty of shops to tempt the tourist, although they tend to be more classy and less tacky than elsewhere. If you like unusual breads or delightful pastries then George’s Bakery is a must visit place.
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